Tulkarem, on the other hand, is in Palestine. It lies beyond the 1948 borders, beyond the Wall now separating Israel and Palestine. The city’s name, which means ‘mount of vineyards’, recalls its roots. The olives are the beauty of its hills and the orange blossom still gives the fine local honey its distinctive aroma. The market is beautiful and chaotic, and every day the streets in the centre of Tulkarem are crowded with people. It is an area of small farmers and craftsmen, and the traditions of the local ceramicists and embroiderers have been kept alive. Important restoration projects have returned the fortified villages of these hills to their former splendour: the castles of Kur and Shufa recall the age when the land was ruled by feudal overlords.